When using a pressure pot, what is the optimal time it should be in there if I'm wanting to do a second pour? I'm not so much worried about a visible line as I am it bonding and adhering, and not being a weak spot. I usually leave them in between 1.5 - 2 hours before removing and demolding them.
First pour really isn't a pour, more of a sealing coat. Mixed with Chameleon color shifting flakes, painted on the surface of a wood base. I've done this without the pressure pot, and it was a bit of a disaster, so this time I want to brush it on and put it in the pot, but I don't know for how long before doing the actual pour itself.
Then I have a second project, where I want to suspend an object in resin, so the first pour will be around 12-15 ounces, poured into a 32 ounce movie theater cup, and then when it gels, place my item and pour a second pour, about 20 ounxces, but I don't know how long in the pot before placing my item and doing the 2nd pour.
1 1/2 to 2 hours should be good for your second project.
I've been making dragon eggs with clear slow, and have had zero success with it as a seal coat. I've seen bubbles reappear after 6 hours under pressure. It doesn't want to cure properly in thin layers.
I seal coat with polyurethane, give it a good 24 hrs. to cure, and then cast. I've read that acrylic paints or epoxy also work well.
Hey LawnBoy , since you said you also make dragon eggs, I have a couple of quick questions for you... What types of wood have you been using, and do you paint your wood before a sealing coat?
I've used some burl pieces, some hardwoods, and just some wood from the yard. I paint the bases with a black acrylic paint, then coat with epoxy mixed with chameleon flakes (last time I used J-B Weld 5 minute epoxy), let that cure, then do my main pour. After cutting on the lathe into an egg, there is a very discernible edge where the acrylic paint and the sealing coat seem to meet. Before I started painting my bases, I just put them in with no paint and no sealing coat (the wood was already dry, I live in AZ, dry wood is not a problem) so when I cut on the lathe, there was no edge or separation between the wood and resin. But since painting them, it doesn't seem as smooth of a transition from wood to resin. Have you experienced this?
Last Edit: Jan 15, 2020 11:41:04 GMT -5 by wizaerd
I'm using the Australian eucalyptus burls (coolibah, mallee, yellow box) and my favorite, maple burl. Lol, stay off of eBay, those are MINE dang you!
I haven't tried acrylics or epoxies as seal coats. I use PolyUrethane and apply glitter to it while wet. The PU works to seal the wood and glues the glitter down. After shaping I do get a tiny ridge line where the wood meets the resin, but that is because I wet sand and the water makes the wood swell a bit. Two layers of topcoat (Amazing Clear Cast epoxy) and that ridge can't be seen or felt.
My eggs are getting incredible responses from people. I gave away a dozen over Xmas and one female relative actually cried when she saw hers, while the guys were asking how in h*ll I made them. Very gratifying. It's not that I'm some expert hot-shot turner, I'm a decent craftsman but it's these Alumilite products that make it possible. Whatever effort it may take to get your process worked out will be well worth it.