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Post by notoes on Nov 2, 2017 13:34:51 GMT -5
I know that AlumiRes RC-3 is supposed to be paintable with acrylic paint, so my question is: does it matter what KIND of acrylic paint?
I'm attempting to paint some castings and suspect that my paint is too old to use (don't use it a lot so I can't remember when I got them) as it won't dry on the castings and is causing the castings to bubble if I paint the mold before casting. I will be picking up some paint for glass painting this weekend and will also be getting some new paint for the castings but need to know if I need to look for any special kind. I'd like to get a multi-color pack so I have a lot of different colors but they don't come in any "special" types such as paint/enamel for glass painting so I'd like to be sure I can do that before I waste money on paint I can't use right away.
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Post by Brian on Nov 2, 2017 18:13:32 GMT -5
...there is a small amount of oil residue in the resin and/or mold release that can be washed off of the surface before painting with warm water and dish detergent...I prefer Dawn dish washing soap.
As far as Acrylic paint goes I have used model car type paint.....rattle can, bottle and decanted bottle shot thro an air brush and also automotive spray paint off of the self.
Shoot a thin coat first to seal the resin ,then as many thin coats you need to get the desired result...the reason I say thin coats is so as to not loose any detail that you may have.
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Post by notoes on Nov 3, 2017 7:18:18 GMT -5
I don't use mold release since the molds are silicon so the oil is probably from the old paint. Good then any acrylic paint will work. Rattle can? I thought a spray paint wouldn't work but if you've use it and it stays on then I might have to try my Krylon Indoor/Outdoor paint - it's the paint and primer in one kind (I use it to spray paint stencils on shirts). It would give me a good use for my can of white (doesn't work on shirts when using as a background on dark colored shirts). Thanks for the advice!
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Post by notoes on Nov 5, 2017 7:09:56 GMT -5
Got another question on painting the AlumiRes RC-3, I want to cast buttons for clothing so the castings will probably be going into a washing machine - do I need to do any special "treatment" to them before or after painting? And would the RC-3 stand up to being a clothing button or should I use a different casting resin?
Carol, Mike could either one of you chime in? I know you both have lots of good advice on the strength and applications of the resins (Carol is the one who let me know that I could use the RC-3 to make my action figure joints).
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Post by Brian on Nov 5, 2017 11:38:17 GMT -5
The resin button should be more durable than a plastic button...I have used RS-3 for "other things" and it is quite dense and durable. As far as the paint goes, the Enamel paints would take the heat of a dryer and the agitation of a washer....shoot the buttons with a clear coat for added protection. I have not used any yet, although I have seen in person, some resin pours where Alumilites Alumidust was used and I was quite impressed. The Alumidust is either brushed into the mold or added to the casting material. |
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Post by carol - Alumilite Corp on Nov 9, 2017 8:37:58 GMT -5
Hello Brian and Notoes,
We usually recommend lacquers or acrylics but you may also use enamels or a synthetic paint. When using lacquer primers you can be assured typically of having a long term effectiveness of the paint.
The other option is to paint your silicone mold with a fast drying acrylic or clear coat spray paint (let it dry 10-15 minutes) prior to pouring your Alumilite Resin into the mold. When it is cured, you have a chemically bonded primer coat works great!
One more thing for a good primer is painting it with a spray paint as soon as you demold, when the resin is still curing you get a good crosslink of the paint and resin.
If I may also add... remember it is important to measure and mix any resin so that there is a good mix of the A and the B. When the resins
crosslink there is nothing leeching that leaves an oily residue on the part and it makes it hard for the paint to adhere.
Dying the resin close to the color you are going to be painting them would help if they get scratched up during use or wash. The resins are not scratch resistant dear.
Have a wonderful day.
Warmest Regards,
Carol
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Post by notoes on Nov 10, 2017 6:48:12 GMT -5
An enamel like the kind you paint glass with? I plan on doing some glass painting Wednesday so I can toss in a couple resin pieces for fun. I'll have to copy this info into my computer so I don't forget. Now that I've gotten better with the smaller molds it's time for me to copy three ornaments of my Mom's to send to two of my brothers and I'll be painting those by hand. The buttons are for a practicing project but the ornaments are a personal thing so I have to make sure I do a good job on them. Thanks for the info!
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Post by notoes on Nov 11, 2017 9:40:12 GMT -5
Andddd another question: if I paint the pieces after they're fully cured, do I need to do anything special to keep the color on? Aside from maybe adding two or three coats of clear coat? I did a test piece but it only has one coat of acrylic paint and one coat of clear coat and I've noticed I probably should have added a second coat.
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Post by carol - Alumilite Corp on Nov 17, 2017 9:17:59 GMT -5
Notoes,
Typically 1 finish clear coat is enough...did you do a primer coat first before your hand painting, by either painting the mold or a primer as soon as you demolded? It is good idea to prime it and then it should pretty much take one clear finish/sealing coat.
Happy Holidays.
Regards,
Carol
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Post by notoes on Nov 18, 2017 17:08:57 GMT -5
The personal test one didn't get the paint for a while so it's already hit full cure and since it was just a test I completely forgot about the primer so no primer at all. I'm so used to not painting them at all since I've only made castings for multi cavity candy molds. Also I have paint that's paint and primer in one, should I be using the kind that is just primer?
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Post by carol - Alumilite Corp on Nov 22, 2017 14:34:26 GMT -5
Notoes,
The paint/primer should work. Just paint it as soon as you take it out of the mold while it is still warm. That gives the primer a cross link with the resin for it's best adhesion as a primer coat.
Have a wonderful Thanksgiving.
Regards,
Carol
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Post by notoes on Nov 22, 2017 19:34:19 GMT -5
Good to know the paint/primer is good to use, I'll make sure to go ahead and spray right after de-molding all future castings. And my test casting is holding up fairly well even though it got sprayed well after full cure and has no clear coat on. Only has one spot that flaked off and that was due to actually trying to scrape it with my nail (which are like using a metal nail). Nothing else has come off since with light fabric rubbing.
Don't eat too much turkey!
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