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Post by bradmeehan on Jul 12, 2017 10:23:50 GMT -5
I really like the Regular Black resin I purchased for my high temperature applications (I'm reproducing hard-to-find scooter and motorcycle parts). I ordered the Regular Tan as I thought it would allow me to color it with your pigments, but adding white pigment to the Tan just produces a lighter tan part, not white. Your Clear Resin product only shows 140 degree temperature resistance and I've used the Amazing resin as well, but the parts became melted/distorted when they were mounted on the bikes were exposed to higher temperatures. Which resin do you recommend that is on par with the quality, ease-of-use, and temperature resistance of the Black/Tan that I could use white pigment to make white parts?
Also, I bought the Flex 60 and added black pigment to make reproduction floor mats. I'm finding the final product is producing very oily surfaces that can't be cleaned up and the product is creating large blistering bubbles when it sets. Any tips on how to make a better flexible part without these issues? Does pigment cause the oily residue? Do you offer a black Flex product?
Any help would be appreciated.
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Post by mike on Jul 13, 2017 10:46:00 GMT -5
Good questions.
Alumilite Regular has a very high temp resistance. As you found, by adding White Dye you can only get to an egg shell color at best. Alumilite White has everything you want but the heat resistance. Its extremely easy to use and is cosmetic white. My suggestion ... is to dye the Alumilite Regular with White dye and then simply spray with a white automotive primer to get the true white color you are looking for.
We simply don't have a high temp resin that cures pure white with anywhere close to the heat resistance that the Alumilite Regular has along with its performance for automotive applications.
Sounds like there is too much dye in the Flex 60. It only takes approximately 1% to effectively dye the 60 to be black. Too much dye can affect the full cure and physical properties. Are you able to degas the Flex? If so, that will help tremendously. Also make sure you mixing the Flex series by weight. For example 50 grams of A (add .5 grams of Black dye ... 1%), then add 50 grams of B. You should not have any oily surfaces or residue.
Mike
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Post by bradmeehan on Jul 13, 2017 11:10:05 GMT -5
Thanks, Mike
I don't have the equipment to degas, but sounds like my problem was that I was measuring 1:1 by volume, not by weight so I'll try mixing by weight first. The entire pour is about 16oz by volume so I'll pour 8oz of Side A, weigh it, add the dye by weight, then add the equivalent Side B by weight as well to see how that turns out.
I was trying to avoid painting the parts all together, but I suppose I can do it in a pinch. Thanks for your help.
Brad
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