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Post by artdragon on Apr 5, 2016 21:31:41 GMT -5
I've been trying to think of a way to mold some light switch covers. I have some antique ones and a plain one but they're raised and I don't know what to put under it to keep my rubber from seeping underneath it. I've been using elmers glue to seal items but these are metal and not completely flat. I also run into the problem of the center hole and screw holes. the rubber will just pour right in. any suggestions?
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Post by Brian on Apr 6, 2016 6:54:25 GMT -5
Use modeling clay on the underside to prevent seepage....as far as rubber goes HS-2 and HS-3 will work as far as the holes go...I pour what is considered by most to be very small pieces and the HS-2 or HS-3 picks up very small detail so holes in a light switch cover should pose no problem. The HS-3 is a softer rubber once cured than HS-2 if that makes any difference for you.....since it sounds like your doing a 1 part mold it should not make any difference.
You might have to clean up the resin piece....flash and perhaps maybe cleaning up the screw holes a little bit with either a small round file or drill bit.
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Post by Admin on Apr 12, 2016 10:12:50 GMT -5
Yes, exactly...you will need to use clay to seal up the underside. Here is a photo of a receptacle cover plate which shows how the cast pieces are flat rather than concave on the back. We used Quickset here, but you can use High Strength 1, 2, 3...most will work fine.  |
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Post by artdragon on Apr 13, 2016 10:27:42 GMT -5
I see everyone calling them H1, 2 & 3 but how do you know which is which? I have the 3/4lb with the white base and pink catalyst. would that work well with switch covers? the cover I have is an antique metal and it's slightly bent so it doesn't sit flat. should I put clay just in the concave part or under the edge too? it's like the one you molded that doesn't have straight sides.
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Post by Brian on Apr 16, 2016 22:24:51 GMT -5
On the front side of the container it should read High Strength 3 or 2 or 1 base (HS-3 or HS-2 or HS-1)....
What I would if I where molding this:
Get some modeling clay from your favorite hobby store if you haven't done so already...what little bit you use is going to get gunked up a little bit with rubber so don't go to extremes with getting the best that money can buy ...I bought a block a few years ago for a few bucks and it still serves me well to this day....I just add some water annually to keep it moist...I keep it stored in an old margarine tub.
Take some of the clay and flatten it out...it should look like a large pancake when you are done (aprox.8" dia. should be enough)
Press the switch cover down into the clay until the edges are beneath the surface ( 1/8th of an inch should be plenty)
Use a knife ....X-Acto type is what I recommend... to excavate from around the switch cover enough so that there is a trough that is all the way around the switch cover....aprox. 1/4" from the switch cover out should be enough. Go only deep enough to fully expose that portion of the cover that comes in contact with the wall in your home. Remember that the rubber will pick up every detail that you want and every imperfection that you don't want.
Build up a wall to contain the poured rubber. The wall needs to be , at least, 3/4" above the surface of the switch cover and no less than 1/2" away from the switch cover.....use a liberal amount of clay to build up the wall...use your finger to compact and smooth...you don't want rubber leaking thru any crevices that may be present.
Pour your rubber so that it no less than 1/2" deep and let it set up.
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Post by carol - Alumilite Corp on Apr 19, 2016 7:04:24 GMT -5
Artdragon,
Brian is right... not much more I can add! The HS are all different durometers. That is the softness or hardness of the silicone's, HS3 is the softest, 1 is the hardest and the 2 is in the middle. Your original typically dictates what durometer or type of silicone you need for your mold. Undercuts, one or two piece mold, sharp corners, etc.
Regards,
Carol
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Post by Stacey on Jan 22, 2018 14:35:37 GMT -5
I've been trying to think of a way to mold some light switch covers. I have some antique ones and a plain one but they're raised and I don't know what to put under it to keep my rubber from seeping underneath it. I've been using elmers glue to seal items but these are metal and not completely flat. I also run into the problem of the center hole and screw holes. the rubber will just pour right in. any suggestions? Hi there. I am just wondering if anyone knows what to use inside the mold? I am trying to mold light switch covers too but I don't want to use resin or clay for finished result. Anyone have any ideas? |
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Post by notoes on Jan 23, 2018 8:05:38 GMT -5
Alumilite has a line of soft and hard plastics you can use instead of resin. There is also a line of rigid foam but I wouldn't use that in a light switch. Also I prefer Remelt in place of clay to seal edges on the original, to me it's easier to clean up/pull off the original and easy to melt to fill up the shape needed. If any spills out where you don't want it just snip it off with scissors. Just remember to spray it with a release where it will come in contact with the mold.
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Post by Stacey on Jan 23, 2018 10:26:22 GMT -5
Alumilite has a line of soft and hard plastics you can use instead of resin. There is also a line of rigid foam but I wouldn't use that in a light switch. Also I prefer Remelt in place of clay to seal edges on the original, to me it's easier to clean up/pull off the original and easy to melt to fill up the shape needed. If any spills out where you don't want it just snip it off with scissors. Just remember to spray it with a release where it will come in contact with the mold. I will try that!! Some other light switches I want to try are metal. Is there anything that could be used in the mold that would have a similar effect? So if i spray painted the finished product and sand away some areas to make it look like metal underneath. For a more rustic feel. If that makes sense |
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