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Post by mercbill on Jan 5, 2022 0:20:32 GMT -5
I bought some gold metallic powder and want to test it. The part I'm making takes 60 ml or resin (30 part A and 30 part B). I plan to mix the powder to part A before adding part B. How much gold powder should be added to give the part a nice uniform and consistent finish? How do you measure the dust itself? I'm using slow set resin.
Thanks Bill
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Post by notoes on Jan 13, 2022 10:07:23 GMT -5
I haven't used the dust before so I'm not sure how to measure it but everything I've seen says to just eyeball it as you pour it into Side A. So I'd pour a little into Side A, mix it well and if it isn't the right color you want then add more and keep doing this until you get what you want to see.
Or you could measure out a little of Side A and B, add to Side A and mix until you get what you want, then mix Side B in and then "paint" or brush on this mixture to the inside of the mold and let it dry.
Or you can cast the part and mix up a little bit of the dust/Slow Set and brush it over the surface of the casting. As both are resin, you shouldn't need to prime the casting for both to bond well.
I hope this helps.
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Post by mercbill on Jan 13, 2022 14:34:37 GMT -5
I haven't used the dust before so I'm not sure how to measure it but everything I've seen says to just eyeball it as you pour it into Side A. So I'd pour a little into Side A, mix it well and if it isn't the right color you want then add more and keep doing this until you get what you want to see. Or you could measure out a little of Side A and B, add to Side A and mix until you get what you want, then mix Side B in and then "paint" or brush on this mixture to the inside of the mold and let it dry. Or you can cast the part and mix up a little bit of the dust/Slow Set and brush it over the surface of the casting. As both are resin, you shouldn't need to prime the casting for both to bond well. I hope this helps. Those are good tips. Thank you |
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Post by notoes on Jan 26, 2022 6:21:57 GMT -5
You're welcome, let us know how it comes out.
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Post by mercbill on Apr 21, 2022 11:36:39 GMT -5
You're welcome, let us know how it comes out. I thought I'd give an update and ask for more advice.
I've been able to cast parts using the gold powder but the gold is dull. It doesn't have a nice shine like the powder does when it's inside the jar. I suspect this is caused by curing inside the mold. The gold is really shiny in the top half of an open mold and is the look I need. I'd appreciate any advice you can give. Thanks
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Post by notoes on Apr 23, 2022 7:05:25 GMT -5
Have you tried dusting the inside of the mold before pouring? I'm not sure why it's getting dull in the bottom half of the casting but I've heard of dusting the inside of a mold like this so maybe it will help.
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Post by Brian on Apr 23, 2022 11:56:30 GMT -5
I seen some metallic colored castings that Bob Hayes had done using the Alumidust powder .... as I recall he dusted the inside of the mold prior to pouring .....parts turned out better than what I could have done using my air brush.
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Post by Cobra123 on Apr 24, 2022 16:04:52 GMT -5
You can dust the mold as was suggested above. The other thing you might want to take into consideration is when you made a mold of this part was the surface of this part a dull Matt surface? Was the surface glossy and shiny? Silicone rubber is unforgiving so if the surface was dull every part you pour into it it's going to come out looking that way unless you brush coat the mold as suggested above. The other thing you could do is make another mold only this time use some clear coat to make your original Master more shiny. Then the castings you make after that should come out the same way. Silicone picks up everything.
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Post by notoes on Apr 24, 2022 17:12:01 GMT -5
Yes, silicone does pick up everything - even the things you DON'T want it to or didn't see on the original.
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Post by Cobra123 on Apr 24, 2022 17:39:21 GMT -5
Yep it'll even pick up your fingerprints. The oils in your skin. So you either wear gloves or you keep alcohol swabs on hand. I buy them in bulk at Sam's Club. You can just wipe the surface of your part with the alcohol swab. Do this before you are ready to pour your mold and it will neutralize any of the surface crap.
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Post by mercbill on Apr 24, 2022 18:22:52 GMT -5
Have you tried dusting the inside of the mold before pouring? I'm not sure why it's getting dull in the bottom half of the casting but I've heard of dusting the inside of a mold like this so maybe it will help. Yes, I tried that technique. It's been awhile but I recall the consistency of the gold in the part was poor. I've had better luck putting the powder in part a of the resin. |
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Post by mercbill on Apr 24, 2022 18:32:56 GMT -5
You can dust the mold as was suggested above. The other thing you might want to take into consideration is when you made a mold of this part was the surface of this part a dull Matt surface? Was the surface glossy and shiny? Silicone rubber is unforgiving so if the surface was dull every part you pour into it it's going to come out looking that way unless you brush coat the mold as suggested above. The other thing you could do is make another mold only this time use some clear coat to make your original Master more shiny. Then the castings you make after that should come out the same way. Silicone picks up everything. That's an interesting concept. The part the mold was made from is probably 4 generations from the original parts I started with. it does have a semi-dull surface, neither shiny like chromed parts or really dull. The base part is made of slow set. I spray the part with mann ease release 200, which could be the reason for the matt finish. I might need to try something different. I'll do some experimenting to try to get a shiny finish. Due to the complexity, I might not be able to get there. Thanks for the comments. |
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Post by Cobra123 on Apr 24, 2022 20:59:47 GMT -5
You're welcome. Anytime I want my parts to be shiny metallic looking. I always use mica powders that are metallic. If I want rigid metallic looking Parts I tend to use alumilite water clear. You can use alumilite clear. The alumilite clear cures faster but has a shorter open time. I use both but I think the water clear is better. That is if you are dealing with a larger part or trying to pour a large production mold of parts.
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Post by mercbill on Apr 25, 2022 15:40:22 GMT -5
You're welcome. Anytime I want my parts to be shiny metallic looking. I always use mica powders that are metallic. If I want rigid metallic looking Parts I tend to use alumilite water clear. You can use alumilite clear. The alumilite clear cures faster but has a shorter open time. I use both but I think the water clear is better. That is if you are dealing with a larger part or trying to pour a large production mold of parts. Seems like I need to try a different product. Thanks again for the information |
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