I make miniatures. I can't find an example of someone making a mold like I want to make ... so I'm actually guessing. I want to make a cast of a 1:12 scale ball socket jointed doll riding boot. It needs to be thin and hollow. I'm pretty sure the Amazing mold rubber is what I need to make my mold - for a few reasons ... I don't need to worry about degassing, and it will be able to reproduce the details I need. I think I need something like the Flex 20 - because I need the final product to be supple, flexible but strong. However I don't have a set up to degas. I have watched most of the videos, and searched online for the solution but I haven't found an example of anyone making what I want. I think the casting would be similar to a thin vase ... but it would have an almost 90degree bend inside the vessel. Any suggestions ? ? TIA
I'd actually go with one of the High Strength series, I use HS-3 all the time and haven't had any problems with it losing any detailing or needing degassing. Even with the smaller size, you might be best to make a two piece mold. Can you take a picture to show us what it looks like? It might be a easier to help if we can see what it looks like.
So I make the miniature clothing and tack ( ie saddle and bridle ). I have some Ball socket jointed dolls .... but currently they are just the doll... ie no clothing or accessories. I am trying to make a silicone one or two piece mold of the riding boots and then cast a pair of boots to fit on the 8 inch doll. I would like the boots to be made of a flexible Black material. This means that the mold material has to be able to make a detailed mold of a 2 inch hollow boot ... and that the material I make the boot out of also has to be flexible and stretchy to be able to get the boot on the doll.
I've never used slush casting so I can't speak on that part.
I'd use High Strength 3 for the mold and one of the Flex series for the boot casting. The Flex series can be colored so follow the directions on the Flex's technical sheet on how to do that.
If you glue (hot glue would work fine but clay also works well too) the bottoms of the boots to the mold box bottom then you can pour a one piece mold - be sure to pour the HS-3 inside the boot too. I'd make sure to have a good 1/4" to 1/2" over the tops of the boots - this is where the inside will connect to the outside so since you'll be pulling on the inside to remove the cast boot, you'll need to be sure to have enough support so that the inside doesn't separate from the outside part of the mold. And since they'll be tall, be sure to have a bit over 1/4" around all sides (toe area included) to ensure the mold has enough support to hold the shape of the boots correctly.
Now when you pour the mold, if you want to keep the boot heel shape be sure to not glue the arched area between the heel and the toe areas otherwise you'll end up with a flat bottomed boot. Which if that's what you want then go for it. Otherwise the mold material will need to go from one side to the other to make that heel shape.
When you pour the Flex, you will be pouring from the boot bottom so the boots will be upside down in the mold and you should be able to flex the toe area a bit to remove the boot off the mold material that is inside the boot. Before you pour the Flex, I'd be sure to put on a very thin layer of release agent all over the mold cavity (especially on the part going inside toe area) as I think the Flex is a bit "sticky" until it hits full cure time and the mold will need a release agent to be able to slip the boot out easily.