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Post by Carrie on Nov 28, 2020 16:01:11 GMT -5
Hi anyone and everyone!! Super grateful to have found these forums.
So I’ve been working on my table for a little while now, just making mistakes and learning etc. I’m not sure how quickly these forums are at the moment but thought I’d ask anyhow.
1. The ratio is 1:1 by VOLUME not weight, correct?
I currently have a red base table top that I have put a couple coats on using 240 grit sandpaper in between, wiping down and, mixing as slow as I can stand, pinch the cup and then slow pour after individually sitting in their cups in a warm water bath.
2. Is this water bath necessary or doing any harm? My warehouse has a couple heaters in it so it is room temperature, if not a little warmer.
I have also been waiting 24 hours each time, wiping down after sanding with very very water diluted glass cleaner. 3. I’ve just been reading about moisture being the devil so has that been a big mistake? 4. How long in between coats before I should actually be pouring again?
5. I currently only have hydrogen peroxide. Does that count as rubbing alcohol? Sorry if that’s a silly question.. 6. Would the hydrogen peroxide be okay for the post sanding wipe down (instead of isopropyl), as well as the fine mist on the top layer when I think I’ve finally poured my final coat?
And finally; 7. What do you guys use for dust covers
If anyone has read this far and has any advice I’m already super grateful.
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Post by P on Dec 1, 2020 21:28:34 GMT -5
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Post by notoes on Dec 8, 2020 7:43:50 GMT -5
We usually answer most questions quickly, except when we miss seeing the notifications of new threads like I missed seeing them sooner...
To answer some of your questions:
1. Yes it is by volume, both the Amazing Clear Cast and Amazing Clear Cast Plus.
2. It's not doing any harm at all, if you have room temperature then you're good but keeping them a little warm helps mostly with the ease of mixing.
3. Moisture is bad but if you wipe down after the cleaner with a dry towel to be sure you get it completely dry and waiting long enough then you should be just fine.
4. I've poured again within minutes but I wasn't doing any sanding so if you're already waiting 24 hours, then I'd go exactly how you have been.
5. No, they're not the same and I wouldn't use it in place of it on this application.
6. I wouldn't do it myself. If you don't have the alcohol, I just won't use anything.
7. Depends on where the dust covers are going. If it's to cover the floor then anything used for paint (like a piece of plastic or very thick cloth) should be fine. I use a vinyl covered mat to stand on under where I pour my resins. Now a dust cover for the table, cloth might be the best (I like cloth for regular tables) but most anything shouldn't scratch it.
I hope this helps.
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Post by Carrie on Dec 17, 2020 1:37:53 GMT -5
We usually answer most questions quickly, except when we miss seeing the notifications of new threads like I missed seeing them sooner... To answer some of your questions: 1. Yes it is by volume, both the Amazing Clear Cast and Amazing Clear Cast Plus. 2. It's not doing any harm at all, if you have room temperature then you're good but keeping them a little warm helps mostly with the ease of mixing. 3. Moisture is bad but if you wipe down after the cleaner with a dry towel to be sure you get it completely dry and waiting long enough then you should be just fine. 4. I've poured again within minutes but I wasn't doing any sanding so if you're already waiting 24 hours, then I'd go exactly how you have been. 5. No, they're not the same and I wouldn't use it in place of it on this application. 6. I wouldn't do it myself. If you don't have the alcohol, I just won't use anything. 7. Depends on where the dust covers are going. If it's to cover the floor then anything used for paint (like a piece of plastic or very thick cloth) should be fine. I use a vinyl covered mat to stand on under where I pour my resins. Now a dust cover for the table, cloth might be the best (I like cloth for regular tables) but most anything shouldn't scratch it. I hope this helps. Thank you so much for your reply!! I’m really really appreciative of your help. I have taken your advice and found isopropyl. Wow, game changer. I did actually try hydrogen peroxide on a sacrificial piece out of curiosity, and you’re right. Garbage. Now, I really hope it’s okay to ask additional question/s here in the thread. If not, I can absolutely move it into its own post. Context: I had finally gotten the perfect colour, shape, level, consistent curing quality and somehow ZERO bubbles on my table top. The satisfaction, I tell ya! My next step was to sand it up again, clean it, pour a thin layer, and put a texture film on top (squeegeeing out any air bubbles, while still keeping a thin layer of resin that I assumed it would adhere to. Waited around 8hrs, then cut the edges all perfect. I left a little extra room around the very edges thinking that the next layer of resin could ‘enclose’ the film and then I poured a thin top coat of resin, hoping that would seal the whole thing... I waited for over 24hrs -excited that I was finally going to be done. I have now discovered that it refuses to cure to the film. And the problem is also, I have my absolute heart set on the design. I’ll clarify some more details below: -the texture I want I found on a PVC vinyl window film. - - Here’s an example of what type of film I mean: ( www.amazon.ca/dp/B00RDVDRJA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_3yV2Fb74ANWQT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 ) Questions 1. Do I need a specific pvc vinyl adhesive or something and then just glue that down to my base? - Now, finally for the top coat... When I came back to check on it, I had lost ALL sign of texture when I poured it on. Which seems SO obvious now because it self levels.. 2. How on earth do I get an epoxy table top layer without losing the textured appearance? Is this even possible? Can/should it work if I seal it with something first? My fingers are crossed that I’m not the first one to meet this issue. But I haven’t been able to find much that’s very helpful on YouTube. Thank you so so so much again for your help. Or anyone else that might be able to lend me a suggestive hand here Carrie
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Post by notoes on Dec 19, 2020 8:29:15 GMT -5
First off you're very welcome and I'm glad the alcohol worked for you and good to know that it's proven that the hydrogen peroxide doesn't work at all.
1. I have not tried vinyl myself but I have done paper in one and all I did was lay it down and brush a very thin coat on first then pour the rest on top. The first brushing kept the paper down and in place so that it didn't move when I poured the rest. So it should also work for vinyl. I assume. I could be wrong though.
2. Unfortunately since it does self level, I'm not sure you would be able to get it even if you brushed on a very thin layer of it. You might could get some of it to stick up if you used something with very deep valleys and very high raised areas but even then I wouldn't promise it would work out.
I'm not sure what else to use to bring up a texture as I haven't tried it myself.
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Post by Carrie on Jan 4, 2021 21:45:50 GMT -5
Okay, so I just wanted to include a follow up in case someone else is ever looking for a similar answer. So, pretty much no matter what I did (I tried many MANY variations of sealants, scuffing sanding, chemical scuffing, even a form of stripping the plastic as much as possible while still keeping the texture) the epoxy refused to bond to vinyl. The only thing that can be done if youre looking to keep a texture (although not what I was aiming for) is to use it as the base, say instead of silicone or mold release, pour your epoxy, let it cure and flip it over. The texture will still be felt as long as you let it fully cure.
Thanks for all your help during this process notoes!
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Post by notoes on Jan 5, 2021 8:01:16 GMT -5
You're very welcome and I'm sorry it didn't bond but it is good to know for certain that it won't. Thanks for the follow up.
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