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Post by usmc1775 on Sept 24, 2015 12:01:02 GMT -5
Hello everyone. I hope someone has an answer for me. I ordered the mold making material as well as the resin to help my dad make a tail light. He said the mold came out perfect, but he has tried a number of times to get the resin to set properly and he said that everything he has tried has ended up in disaster. The first time he poured the equal amounts of A and B and followed the instructions to the letter with regards to adding the red color, mixing,etc. That first batch never set up at all. So, he tried again with different levels of A and B experimenting to see if he could get the resin to harden and he said each time it at least ended up with a sticky mess, partially hardened. Also, I thought I ordered a resin that said degassing wasn't necessary, because he doesn't have the equipment. It was water clear resin that I ordered. He said everything has had lots of bubbles even tho he stirred very slowly and poured carefully as shown in the videos and PDF instructions. He also mentioned warming the mold in the oven as well. Any suggestions?  This will not work. Thanks! Chris |
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Post by carol - Alumilite Corp on Sept 25, 2015 8:31:19 GMT -5
Hello Chris,
First of all when you said your father measured equal amounts, the ratio on the Water and Alumilite Clear is by weight, not volume. If your father was measuring by volume, that may be one of the issues with the material not curing. Secondly, going off ratio will/can make it worse, it is imperative it be on ratio of the 1:1 by weight (using a scale) on the two urethane clear resins.
I am sorry Chris you thought you would have no bubbles with the Water Clear... both the Water Clear and Alumilite Clear it is recommended that they are degassed. On our website we do have two instructions, one showing how to use the product with degassing equipment, the other for those who do not have or want to purchase degassing equipment to use it if a few bubbles are not an issue in their final product. Without degassing you will have some bubbles, they can be diminished a bit by how you pour/use the product.
Warming the mold is good, because tail light lenses are basically thin and this is an exothermic resin generating heat by it's mass to go from liquid to solid. In thin cross sections there is not a lot of mass to generate heat, so by warming the mold to 120-140 degrees F, it gives the resin an assist to harden uniformly giving you a consistently fully cured cast piece.
I would be more than happy to speak with your father and walk through the process with him and/or you if you would like to call us here.
Have a great weekend!
Regards,
Carol
800-447-9344
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Post by usmc1775 on Sept 25, 2015 11:15:57 GMT -5
Hello, Carol.
Thank you for the reply. I wonder if that might be the problem, that he was measuring equal amounts by volume and not weight. He just told me that the resin is still sticky 2 weeks later. Lol. I'm going down to his house this weekend and I will pass along your contact info to him, just in case he still has the same problem after trying it by weight.
I'm sorry, when I ordered the mold and resin, I thought that the resin I ordered didn't need degassed and wouldn't have bubbles. obviously, I misunderstood the instructions.
Thanks again and you have a good weekend as well.
Chris
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Post by carol - Alumilite Corp on Sept 28, 2015 10:33:02 GMT -5
Chris,
You are most welcome! Please have your Dad call we would be happy to help make this successful for him.
Regards,
Carol
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This will not work.
