On two outings with Alumilite Clear Slow, there was much chipping and 'splintering' of the cured resin.I'm not sure if that is just what happens, as I have not seen the Alumilite behave that way in other tutorials I've watched. I can certainly believe I've got something wrong, but not sure where to look.
I don't do any turning with the Clears but I use the Amazing Clear Cast to seal and level my mold bottoms and I've not seen it do that. Usually when it finally does have problems, it is after I've worn it out and it cracks from all the stress I've put it through. How thick is the layer(s) of Clear?
I'm finding that chipping is more related to angle of attack and rpm than anything else. First, spin it fast (paying attention to all that implies). Generally when using hollowing tools you're aiming for your cutting edge to be at a perfect 90 degree angle of attack or incidence. The tool is flat, the edge Is conacting the dead center of the piece vertically. Works great for wood, but resins are much more elastic and can produce a compression/expansion oscillation that quickly becomes chipping. I find that a sharper (more acute) angle of attack makes resins peel away more smoothly. Try raising your toolrest a liitle while keeping the edge of the tool at verical center. This will cause the tool to be at a slight downward angle. Think "negative rake", but you don't need a bunch of expensive new tools to achieve it.
One other thing, always use very light "finishing" cuts. I tried to hog out some resin once and the piece literally exploded.
Let me know if this helps or not.
Last Edit: Jul 23, 2020 11:00:06 GMT -5 by LawnBoy