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Post by dereksensale on May 8, 2018 8:08:53 GMT -5
I work for a tap handle manufacturer in NH and this is a special project. Most of everything I do is with a two piece mold and there's often a lot of sanding to remove the seams which I really want to avoid for this piece. I've already sealed it and built a box and I'm ready to pour silicone over it, but I figured I'd post here to ask for more advice. Now, I feel like I will certainly lose those ears and horns, which isnt necessarily a problem. I was thinking of trying this as a one piece mold using Smooth-on Eco Flex 00-20. It's really flexible. Aside from trying this as a one piece, what are your suggestions. And again, I'd reaaaaally love to stay away from a seam here. Thanks so much!! -Derek
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Post by notoes on May 9, 2018 7:44:53 GMT -5
That looks a little bigger than a koala ornament I've cast. If it works anything like my koala then it can be cast in a one piece mold with one seam line down the back. I don't think you'd really lose the ears or horns if you use the right resin, I've cast smaller items with even smaller details without losing them. Those ears and horns won't be as hard to cast (or as finely detailed) as the hair on an action figure when I've cast the head so I doubt you'll have any problem with them. Those molds were one piece with a small seam on a less noticeable area and I haven't had a problem getting them out without breaking pieces. I've gotten bubbles in the spikey ends of hair (lots and lots of spikes) but with the shape of that casting, you shouldn't have the same problem as my smoother castings almost never got bubbles.
For the mold I'd use Alimilite High Strength 3 (this IS the forum for Alimilite products you're asking about it on by the way). You definitely need a liquid mold material to get those small details without breaking them while taking the original or the casting out of the mold. Make sure to glue the bottom of the handle to the bottom of the box. The HS 3 has great flexibility and you can get away with having a small seam down just half of the back and still be able to get the casting out without losing the ears or horns. I'm fairly certain you'll be able to almost turn the mold inside out to pop out the ears and horns without breaking. A seam on the back wouldn't be hard to sand down and if you put the mold back in the box upside down (so the pour hold is on top) then the box will support the mold tightly and you will get a smaller (if any) seam. I'd also use one of the higher strength resins like RC-3 too. You might even want to warm the mold if possible. Other than that, I have no more advice so happy molding.
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Post by carol - Alumilite Corp on May 16, 2018 9:41:11 GMT -5
Notoes is spot on with her instructions of which one of our products would best to use and her process.
I have had some pieces that have had similar complex details that have come out just fine with the High Strength 3 used as the mold making silicone. We have an even softer durometer in the Plat 10 silicone if you haven't looked at that yet Derek.
Of course there is always a chance of pieces breaking off on clay originals when removing them from the silicone after it is cured. Nice job on your sculpting of the bull!
Regards,
Carol
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