Hey question on this. I had just bought a few days ago amazing cast resin the white 10 min cure kind and it is bubbling like crazy it's insane. The mold I just did with this bubbled so much it raised up out of the mold like dough. Does it mean it's old if my box says 3/2018 on it? Or is that when it was made and it's ok because I just unsealed it other day? Michael's is where i got it from and I have problems with them in the past actually all the time with their products being old or having dried out polymer clay bc they obviously left it in temperature it shouldn't have been. I'm tired of buying expensive crafting supplies supposedly brand new and opening it up to find it's messed up! I've wasted so much money on this fact. Just two days ago I bought clay and realized when I got home it said 2014 on it plus I bought a discontinued transluscent yellow from premo in the store lol and it is the weirdest stringy consistency. But anyways confused about the resin it didn't pour into the mold with bubbles but it always ends up being all bubbles when it cures. My God these craft stores need to get it together. soon I'm gunna have nowhere left to shop.
If you have access to a Hobby Lobby, I'd suggest going there or checking out their website - their supplies are cheaper plus you can print off a 40% coupon (print as many as you want but they only last about a week on the use by dates) which you can apply in store or online. The coupon is only good for one item on a regular priced item but with the cheaper price Hobby Lobby has combined with the coupon, it's almost like using a 50% coupon at Michaels. Also if you consistently have too much trouble, you could always order it right from Alumilite. It's full price but it's also the freshest product and they do their best to make sure the shipments aren't sitting in a post office (like on a Sunday when the post office is closed and doesn't ship) and is always in transit. I order my Plat 25 from them and as it takes three days to get to me, they make sure to never ship it on a Friday where it would have to sit in the post office on Sunday.
I'm not sure what the dates mean as I've never really paid attention to them, but that sounds like a moisture problem. I'd try the easy stuff first - try warming the mold and casting again. I pop my molds into the microwave for 1 minute on high then cast the resin as soon as I take it out. Also if you're casting outside or with the windows open and it's humid outside - that will add moisture which will make it foam. There are also ways of "straining out" the moisture and boiling it out but I haven't had to do that myself so I can't say how to do it.
I've had "new" molds that I just made the day before do it with RC-3 and warming the molds first usually does the trick. And I've used "old" resin that had "flecks" in the B side before plus I make very small cavity molds (some as small as 1/2") and 9 times out of 10 just warming the mold is all I needed. I also don't have the equipment to degas my molds and I usually don't have problems. Also if you stir the resin too fast, you'll introduce bubbles. The 10 minute does have an open time of 2 1/2 minutes but try to slow down the stirring by taking longer strokes - go all the way around the cup slowly instead of short bursts. This may help keep the bubbles down. And try mixing a smaller amount at a time. I use small molds and small pours (1/2 ounce total) and I normally don't have much problems with bubbles. Hope all this helps.
my resin is drying with pimples, ive done many tumblers with out any problems, until now.
Either the mold needs to be cleaned of any debris that may have accumulated in it, or the mold has become unusable...they don't last forever, especially if they are not taken cared of...doesn't matter who's name is on the bottle/box. Another possibility is that there is air in the mold that is not being allowed to escape properly or is not being worked to the surface during the pour which is on the user.
Iam doing my first project using 2 part clear coating.. My project is clear coating a wooden high chair.I sanded and stained the entire chair.I mixed the 2 parts together and I have many bubbles..Is there a way to get rid of the bubbles..I poured 14 hours ago.I planned on putting on a second coat but not with all these bubbles Please Help! Thank You So Much! Debra
If you have the equipment to degass then I believe that would be the recommended way to get rid of the bubbles. I don't have the equipment myself so what I do is add some kind of "vibration" to make the bubbles move to the top and pop. I've been known to tap on the mixing cup with my fingers, turn on a shaver of some kind and put it against the cup, or even just let the cup sit for a bit and let the bubbles rise by themselves. Then the other thing to do is pour from a higher level, I usually try to pour from 6-12 inches above the object I'm pouring into (or on as the case may be) and pour slowly with a very thin stream. Now once the resin is on and cured with bubbles there's not much that can be done except remove it and try again. With a chair I'd say the best thing to try is to get most of the bubbles out before pouring, the clear resins have a longer set up time so you should be able to have enough time to get rid of the bubbles before it gets too hard to do so.
I have just poured my first Waterclear part and have an issue with degassing the resin...it won't. After mixing I find that the resin is still too viscous to allow the air entrapped in the resin to escape. I've seen a few videos showing how the air bubbles will percolate out the top of the mix ...almost completely. In my case...nada. What am I missing in the process? I was thinking that maybe heating up the resin will make it less viscous and thus allow the air to escape more easily...but will my pot life be reduced significantly if I do this?
My local Woodcraft shop recommended Alumilite for filling knot holes and routed shapes in wood. It has been a complete disaster from the beginning from a few bubbles to literally a foaming result that is like a volcano experiment in grade school. I am sure my product was contaminated by moisture and the room temperature in my basement workshop is not ideal for curing. I only wish Woodcraft would have advised me how sensitive this product was to temp/humidity. It also seems like the product is not good for filling irregular shaped holes in wood, or wood in general due to the natural gasses released by the wood during the curing process. If so, I would suggest this product not be sold through woodworking supply stores......
I use several alumilite products with wood to great success, and so do thousands of others. No resin of any brand will work with wood that is outgassing. Try reading the manufacturers recommendations and you might have better luck.