I have a product I produce that has a clear resin finish 1/16th thick over burl wood veneer mounted to aluminum. This is an interior automotive part and can experience temperatures ranging from -25F to 160F
The previous resin I was using is decent but gets a little soft when it gets above 140F. Soft enough where you can push on the finish with your fingernail and leave a dent.
I am looking for something more heat resistant and the UV line here looks like a solid option.
My question is what would be the best choice for such an application where I would like to pour the piece flat to utilize the doming effect for the edges but then I was hoping to put a very gentle bend into the piece after cure.
Which of the three can flex a tiny bit and handle that kind of heat? Is the UV cure resin way to hard for that? No way to heat to 200 or something to bend a little after cure?
The Alumilite Clear does not have the flex required whereas the Alumilite Water Clear, Amazing Clear Cast (epoxy), and the AlumiUV all would have some degree of flex. I believe those would be better products to consider and test.
Hey, do you know if it is ok to bond together both types of resin?
For instance, I would like to seal off some very porous wood with a two part resin so it can seep into the wood and cure on it's own since I doubt UV cure would work with it deep in the wood and in the dark and then after I get that resin in place I would like to put a layer of UV cure domed over the top.
My question is, will I have to sand the first layer of resin after a full cure or can I put the UV resin on top while the first layer of two part resin is still fairly fresh like say poured 3 hours prior etc.
I am not happy with any two part resin I have tested so far because of thermoset crazing. I have a 7x7" part that I pour 1/16th inch resin on top of and I dome it but once cured the finish has tiny crazing lines from the two part resin.
As recently mentioned in another post, Thompson's waterseal or a primer of some sort has been used to "seal" porous wood before painting or coating. That might be a good option for you. Sealing the porosity is important as it locks in air and reduces the chance for water getting into the wood from hook rash or any other way which will then prevent swelling and eventual cracking of your coating. I've seen this happen to some wood baits that were never sealed before painting or coating. Our Amazing Clear Cast and AlumiUV both bond to pretty much every paint, sealer, or primer that we've ever tried. I don't know of any in which they would not bond.