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Post by estraulino on Dec 6, 2015 13:42:00 GMT -5
Hi!
I'm using Alumilite Clear AB to create large colorless prism, but all my tests keep turning out yellowy tinted. Is this normal? What can I do to cast a completely colorless Alumilite Clear AB block?
Should I use Alumilite Clear Water?
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Post by mike on Dec 7, 2015 13:11:41 GMT -5
Mass and heat (exotherm) can have an effect on the appearance/color of the Clear along with the glossiness of the mold and finished part. How big is the prism? Can you email pics to world(at)alumilite(dot)com?
thx,
Mike
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Post by estraulino on Dec 7, 2015 15:04:00 GMT -5
Hi!
I've emailed you the photos. The prism is 7cm x 7cm x30cm tall. I've taken a picture of the wooden model for size reference and of the casting tests I've made that are yellow.
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Post by mike on Dec 7, 2015 15:57:38 GMT -5
Haven't seen it yet but will keep checking.
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Post by estraulino on Dec 8, 2015 20:07:59 GMT -5
Hi,
it seems the alumilite email server wont accept my emails sent from gmail, any other way I could send you the pictures?
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Post by carol - Alumilite Corp on Dec 9, 2015 13:33:40 GMT -5
We finally received those pictures today someone will be getting back to you shortly.
Regards,
Carol
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Post by mike on Dec 10, 2015 11:56:26 GMT -5
Wondering ... how old is your Clear resin you used to pour the prisms? Did you receive it recently. We use a tin (most people use mercury ... we refuse to) to catalyze our clear urethanes. Tin over time can yellow the polyol side of the Clear in the bottles as well as eventually in the cured pieces. The Water Clear does not turn nearly as quickly or as off color but can not guarantee it will not change over time. The newer the resin, the more likely it is to be completely clear and color free.
Mike
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Post by estraulino on Dec 11, 2015 0:28:07 GMT -5
Yeah, that might be it. The store clerk told me the batch they had had been there since the beginning of the year. Is that enough time to yellow the final casts?
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Post by mike on Dec 11, 2015 11:03:52 GMT -5
Yes, absolutely.
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Post by estraulino on Dec 14, 2015 9:20:50 GMT -5
Ok, so made more tests and caste a piece that is 2" x 2" x 6" and it has a crack on the inside. Is there a way to get large and thick castings without cracks?
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Post by mike on Dec 14, 2015 9:54:59 GMT -5
2x2x6 doesn't seem that big for using Alumilite Clear. Did you encapsulate anything in your pour? If you attempted to encapsulate any wood or perhaps a pine cone it is crucial to make sure the wood is completely dry. If it is not completely dry, you will want to stabilized it using a stabilizing resin. The one I know works extremely well and is completely compatible with our resins is Cactus Juice produced by Curtis Seebeck from TurnTex. If the encapsulated item has any moisture, it will crack.
For larger pours (with or without encapsulated items), we recommend using the Alumilite Clear Slow which is a 12 minute version ... the longer open time creates less exotherm and less thermal expansion and contraction during the cure due to the slower pot life. People doing larger pours have seen much better success when pouring larger pieces using the Slow.
Mike
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Post by estraulino on Dec 14, 2015 17:16:32 GMT -5
No I didn't encapsulate anything. But the two parts were warm because I heated them since the clear one had gelled and it was too viscous. I guess that might have affected the cast and cracked the final piece.
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Post by mike on Dec 15, 2015 9:02:11 GMT -5
Perhaps next time, warm the B, let it cool back down ... it should stay thin like it was when you rec'd it, then mix. Taking the extra heat away could have contributed like you mentioned. Still hard to tell exactly why?
Mike
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