Hello Resin Experts! I'm new and joined to get some more information for resin casting. I am a knife/sword maker and am looking to start casting handle scales and blocks. I've bought these in the past, but as with most things, if I can do this myself, I want to learn. So my general question to you all is what would your suggestion be for a starter kit for casting knife scales/blocks, which will be used for knife/sword handles. So, I would need material, which will cure very hard, be able to be machined, and for more aesthetic purposes, possesses a nice gloss appearance. Thank you in advance for any suggestions that you may give, but I'll also thank you AFTER as well.
High Strength 2 RTV silicone/rubber ...wont be so apt to distort like the High Strength 3 where pouring resin is concerned.
RC 3 Resin .....I used this stuff to fill a void/ reinforce a dead bolt in my home ....once cured it was as if I poured concrete in the wall....the stuff is that hard/ dense.
I have done some machining on the RC 3 resin pieces that I have cast.....1:25 scale auto motive....I use a variable speed Dremel tool to drill, sand, grind, groove and cut the resin pieces.....again, even the smaller pieces are dense/hard enough to do this to. I would not hesitate to take a die grinder or jig saw to a large piece.
The poured resin will not posses a nice gloss appearance...but it is obtainable. Some the pieces that I pour come out smooth enough to shoot some color paint on with out having to prime. If the piece is not smooth or not smooth enough for paint, heres what I have done. After allowing the pieces to completely cure,I first shoot the pieces with a sandable primer....you can use either a hobby paint (model cars) or use regular automotive primer in a spray can....even if the can doesn't say sandable on it , you can either wet or dry sand. The primer base coat fills the porous surface of the resin piece. Once you have primed and sanded to your satisfaction, go ahead and shoot what ever color you want.....keep in mind the smoother the primed surface is, the glossier appearance you will have with your final coats of color. Don't try and get your desired color in one or two coats....a few light coats of color will end up looking better in the end.
If you air brush, do the same as I described above, just remember to thin the paint. I decant what I need into a siphon bottle and shoot light coats.
I was going for a Gold Anodized appearance on these valve covers...the valve covers are a RC 3 pour, no primer paint, no sanding, just shot them with Rust-oleum Metallic Gold out of a rattle can. I was in a hurry and the resin pours came out smooth, so I didn't bother to prime and sand.
Also if you "dedicate" a mold box to keep the mold itself in while you pour, it will help keep the mold stable too. I use solid mold boxes when I pour a mold where a consistent shape matters then when I'm ready to pour the resin, I put the mold back into the original mold box then pour the resin. Most of my molds like this are made in clear plastic cups so I can see that the mold itself is fully and evenly seated in the cup before I pour the resin. I do this for two piece molds, one piece molds where the back is flat doesn't need it - like the apple mold with the flat back below.
For anything that needs all sides (like a handle), it never hurts to have extra support. Also when you sand/machine the RC-3, be sure to either have a dust mask on or a fan blowing on your back to blow the dust away from you in a well ventilated area. It won't really smell but that dust isn't a good thing to breath if you can help it.
Post by carol - Alumilite Corp on Jul 6, 2018 12:24:23 GMT -5
That car is awesome Brian, Notoes is right!! I don't need to check this forum it's in good hands! A wealth of knowledge in this forum, sharing trials and tribulations. Most of time ending in a successful application with the help of you all!