As to the wisps due to incomplete mixing, I use 2 cups. Start the mix in one cup & stir well, then transfer it to a new cup & mix again. That way there is no pure part A or B stuck to the sides or bottom. The mixture will be able to completely crosslink without any problem areas.
Post by carol - Alumilite Corp on Jan 25, 2018 9:46:32 GMT -5
Dear William Z,
Warm the container using hot tap water and place the entire sealed container into the bucket of water. You can lay the bottles on their side or soak the container until it thins back to it's normal viscosity. DO NOT open the caps at anytime in water or after it is thin until you dry off the entire bottles. Shake the B side occasionally while it is warming in the water...rotate hot water as needed and continue to warm until it is back to the original viscosity. DO NOT microwave the material or DO NOT place the plastic container into an oven in an attempt to restore. A hot plate can be used but should be set at a very low setting 120 degrees F. again it should be rotated often and shaken occasionally while thinning so the bottom of the plastic container does not get to hot. Once the material has been restored, it will stay in the viscous state until being exposed to below 65 degree F temperatures for more than a few day days. Short periods of cold temperature exposure will not affect the “B” side viscosity however prolonged periods of cold to the B side especially will thicken it and eventually gel.
Bubbles and I cant figure out what is wrong. I am using Alumilite clear slow and i have way too many bubbles in my castings. I am casting resin inlays in wood. The wood is dry and contains very little moisture. I am seeing the bubbles with clear resin as well as resin that I have tinted with alumidust or small amounts of transtint dye. Here is my process: 1 - Place clear disposable plastic mixing cup on digital scale and tare the scale 2 - Decant 15g of each part A and B into the cup and mix for about 2 minutes with a wooden stir stick. I use two cups and pour back and fourth when mixing. I add dye or pigment if needed before mixing. 3 - Degas for about 2-3 minutes in a vacuum chamber 4 - Carefully pour into the inlay cavity and cure at room temperature
I cant pressure cast these because these are cutting boards and they wont fix into my pressure pot. Sometimes there are so many bubbles that the epoxy almost doubles in size and is foamy after it cures. Interestingly, the resin that is left over in the mixing cup cures bubble free!
Attached is a pic of a failed cutting board inlay after I sanded it down. This is critical for my business and I must find a fix!
Post by rick woodward on Jan 20, 2019 22:02:14 GMT -5
certainly seems like a moisture problem.Try sealing your routed out areas with polyurethane. do a test for compatibility first. You may think its dry and not be. Foaming is moisture related. rick woodward
Rick is right, foaming like that is moisture somehow getting into the resin. You can seal the routed areas like he said but you can also hit it with a bit of heat too which also might help. I'd use a hair dryer as I wouldn't want to use anything that can give too high of a heat level since they're wood. And you said you pour back and forth between two cups? I've never done that when I mix any of my resin so I'm not sure if doing it like that is good or not. Also are you pouring slowly from as high of level above them as possible to do comfortably. I try for almost a foot above it and go very slowly to "stretch" most of the bubbles out.
i will say this about using pressure tanks. When you use the compressor it pulls in the surrounding air. if you have a lot of moisture in the air, it is basically forcing that moisture, with pressure, into the exposed areas of the mold. when im doing pieces that i really care about i run a dehumidifer in the room for a few hours, then run the compressor. most compressors have a release valve for water build up and thats why. just a thought
Bubbles and I cant figure out what is wrong. I am using Alumilite clear slow and i have way too many bubbles in my castings. I am casting resin inlays in wood. The wood is dry and contains very little moisture. I am seeing the bubbles with clear resin as well as resin that I have tinted with alumidust or small amounts of transtint dye. Here is my process:
Tom ive had this issue with wood. wood is VERY pourous and will hold moisture, as well as cause bubbles as air seeps out. try sealing the cavity first. this is why wood turners will pressure treat their wood in a chamber. i understand you cant fit the piece in your chamber but pouring resin into a routed wood surface will most definitely cause bubbles. so seal the inlay and hit the resin with a torch from time to time as it cures
New user of the alumilite slow clear. Having the same issues as listed above but not consistently. Some pours have come out clear from pressure pot and some have been cloudy/white. So first question is regarding scale accuracy. I am using a postal scale which is in one tenth ounce increments. Is this accurate enough or do I need a gram scale? Second point is as mentioned above, the white only occurs when in the pressure pot. Any leftover in the mixing cup has cured clear with bubbles outside the pot. Not sure how to attach pictures or I would. Also close to the factory if it would be possible to stop in and talk in person.
Additional info and picture:
this bowl has a .25" deep by 1" wide groove in the rim. what I wanted to do was pour 1/8" deep first pour and cure, the first time I tried this, it came out with the white opaque, I turned that out and tried again, it came out perfect with the second try.
I then laid the metal gears on the first pour as I was going for a suspended look. Was careful mixing and pouring but wound up with the same white opaque. I love the short cure time of your product and the way it looks when it comes out right. Please help!
Using a scale that has gram measurements is what is recommended, my cheap kitchen one I use (only for non-food use) has the gram and ounce options and I use the gram only as it's more accurate as a smaller increment to me. It's not really necessary to use the pressure pot, I don't have one and I can get the Clear to come out without bubbles without it. If it's only going white in the pot then I'd do it without the pot. Also sometimes your environment will affect the resin cure, sometimes moisture or cold will cause problems.
If you're close by, I'd give them a call and see if any of the techs would be there and can meet you to see in person the problem you're having and go over your process. Depending on who is there, they might be able to give better advice on the pot settings as those might also be the problem cause. It's worth a try.